It takes a village to raise a booger.
By Kyle Ewart
I grew up surfing the beaches around Umina and Forster was never really that great. I didn’t really have a mentor or someone to teach me, I’m still learning and I’ve only started to really progress over the last 2 years.
My favourite wave in the world is shark island, I’ve gotten some of the best waves of my life out there and definitely copped some of the biggest lips to the head out there. I am so lucky that I now get to surf people like Dessy Wendell, Benny Sawyer and Orlando Ferreira, those guys have taught me so much by just watching their styles and the way they pick their lines and how hard they can push it.
I walked into Dessys shop one day after comparing my surfing to his and deciding I really needed help with my surfing. I was at that point were I thought I would never pass the kook level. He laid out his expectations and I agreed to try and meet those expectations, whenever he calls me into wave I’ve just learnt to just go! If it’s a big dirty close out or knowing I’m going to air drop from top to bottom, he has really taught me how to push it.
I’m unbelievably gratetful for meeting that bloke. I used be so anxious walking into any surf whether it would be 2ft-8ft. I used to gag, cough my head off and throw my guts up knowing I could seriously get hurt, but now I’ve accepted it and learnt to just deal with the outcomes as they presented themselves.
This shot was taken 9th of February out the Island in February. We were questioning ourselves whether we should go out or not as it was a 1 meter tide going low and the swell was very,very straight. We didn’t get to surf it for long, but I’m so glad we went out. This was my first wave, and I could hear Dessy from peak screaming ‘go’ so I did ! I made it to the bottom and than it just absolutely buried me!!! I connected with the reef, got held under for a bit but then just popped back up to the surface and paddled back into the line up!
It was a heavy wave, it shook me, but than went away, for such a short session it was unbelievably fun.
Bodyboarding changed my life, I’m so grateful to be around such an encouraging community, I think I am very lucky to live near Cronulla, the community and the way people charge out here is a different kinds of of culture to where you’ll find elsewhere. My hope is to one day surf as well as the guys I’ve spoken of in this article. It’ll take time, bodyboarding isn’t something you can master within a day, it takes years and years, but hopefully I can get myself there one day!