The first in a series where we asked everyday boogers to share there worst injuries from surfing. If you’ve got some gore you’d love to share, hit us at firstname.lastname@example.org to tell your tale.
Bloodsport: Micky Perrin.
I chased this wave with a couple of mates hoping to get some quality footage. We arrived & were watching this wave for about 20mins and saw some unbelievable crackers but saw a lot that were just breaking on to dry rock and shutting down on the end section. The tide wasn’t ideal at this time and we knew it would be better later, however when I looked around the pros were starting to gather on the rocks and line up had 3 jet skis with the likes of Russell Bierke, Wayne Cleveland and Jase Finlay out there.
I wanted some waves so I jumped in my wettie faster than Clark Kent changing in a phone booth. As I’m on the rocks just before I’m about to jump out there’s Mitchell Blewitt putting on a padded suit with his gath helmet next to him and he says to me “I’ve hit my back and head to many times not to have this on.”
By this time Brendon Rowney and another mate Adam Kayzeba are out there ready to hit it. This was my first wave of the session which didn’t start off so well. I was too deep and ended up hitting the back of my head and ripped my right forearm and tore my left hand which was worthy of stitches. When I came to the surface I was looking at the sky and it was spinning a little I probably had some sort of concussion but I wasn’t leaving with just that wave.
I decided to go back out and saw a lump coming through, the skis had missed it and one of the boys was on the inside with priority. I noticed the wave was vacant and it was late to take off but I thought I’d be alright.
I was mistaken.
As I’ve taken off I’ve generated some speed, the wave bottomed out and I found myself flying down an air drop that would leave most with a brown wet suit. I held on and everything went into slow mo, I saw a slight section at the bottom where I thought I can roll straight into this and make it. On the landing I probably lifted my rail slightly early and the water felt like concrete because of the speed I was travelling at.
My left flipper had come off straight away and I felt my left leg bounce and start wrapping around my right leg destroying what balance I had on the wave. This is when I knew I was absolutely farked.
My other flipper had come off and I felt myself getting rolled with the barrel, All I could think was ” I’m heading straight into the rocks here”.
My back took all the impact of the rocks and as I was getting thrown under water I thought my feet were going to be ripped off by the huge barnacles. I received a nice hole in my left ankle.
I was held under all the way to the channel and I was in some discomfort just resting on my board trying to gather myself. Mitchell saw me floating in the channel and had seen what had occurred and was paddling straight towards me yelling “Are you ok?”
I raised my arm and signalled I was alright (Very grateful for blokes like him because we all need to look out for one another when it’s hectic conditions) I knew it was time to get out.
I had some old bloke ran over to me as I was getting out and he said “Did ya need me to take you to hospital that was a bad wipeout” I laughed and said “Na mate I’ll be alright”.
As I was taking off my wettie where my gear was on the rocks I had a few of the boys behind me and all I heard was sighs of “awwwwwww” and I turned around and said “What’s the matter?” One of them asked me if I bruise easy which I replied “no” and all I got in response was “You should see your back, it’s nasty, your whole back is bruised!”
My back and neck have only just recovered and I consider myself very lucky not to be in a wheelchair.
I love it and can’t stay away from waves like this one. It’s when you feel most alive and all your worries disappear. I will bodyboard until I can’t.
That wave intimidates the best around, there were people who were sponsored standing on those rocks not willing to go out. That wave has taken people’s skin/bone and confidence. My hat goes off to the people who are willing to surf that spot especially paddle it. Mitchell, Adam & Rowney were going hard.