Queen of the Cape.
Brenden Newton and Lilly Pollard offer split perspectives on a memorable session.
All images 📷@brendonewton
Today was unfortunately just one of those days….It all culminated in the last wave which resulted in a two wave hold down.
I planned to shoot the crew at island with my new camera housing that morning, but when I got out the back I realised camera was completely flooded (no insurance either).
I went for a surf to wash away the sad vibes at one of my favourite reefs, but instead got a couple of really heavy beatings and pinned against the rocks.I came in, reset, and told myself I’d start fresh and get a sick one.
I turned and paddled into this one which but the wipeout threw me straight to the bottom.Luckily I had my arms covering my head. Then I copped the next one on the head as well, my leash dragged me over the falls and I was again thrown onto the bottom, and then it wouldn’t let me surface. I could see the light, but I couldn’t get my head up above the foam.
I started to mildly freak when I realised I was about to cop a two wave hold down, but decided to just go limp and roll with it. The next one landed on me while I was still under, throwing me to the bottom again. I was a limp rag doll and pretended to sleep while it did what it needed with me, tossed, pinned, smashed, dragged, leash slipped off, board gone.
I came up and I was alive. So I laughed. Brendan said I shouldn’t remember this as a bad day, it’s a good day because I still got this sick one. Thanks for the memory and so awesome to catch up with yew, life is wild hey Brendo.
View one of Lilly’s bombs here.
“Lilly is a proper raw bodyboarder.
I first met her when were both living outta vans around the Box, Margs, 20yrs ago.
I’ve been in recent contact with her as she move nearby to me and was popping up on my insta feed from time to time with a mix of proper charging and solid and brave environmental and Indigenous advocacy.
I messaged her in anticipation of the weekends east swell but couldn’t sort the logistics for “landing the first female movement cover shot!” however we couldn’t make our times match up. After surrendering the plan, I paddle out cape to shoot the arvo sesh after kid duties in the morn and there she was: pink board & iconic Lilly smile.
In a lineup of Russ Bierke, Laurie Towner, Dylan Longbottom, local boogers, skis and the aura of the Abberton bullies still dripping from the rock off zone, usual people are a little intimidated, wait there turn and remain relatively passive in the paddle zone. But Lilly just went for it!
Big bomb, this one.Everyone is cheering, “Fucken yeeeeeeeeah Lilly – what the heck!”
I shot for another few hours after she went in.
She reappears for the late arvo session. Soon she’s stroking into this big nugget. The whole lineup is hooting in admiration of her countercultural STEEZE! What a fuckin’ legend!
She’s a chick, historically oppressed and ignored in society and in the line up, she’s a booger, we’ve been ignored and treated like pieces of shit for 20years and she’s bombing into the wave that the fucken bra boys claimed boogers weren’t allowed to surf.
In this moment here, she’s a hero, nothing less, and through all this, taking on that bomb she’s smiling! What a joy!
I got dragged up the barnicals on my way in from cape that arvo
Some Tahitian / Fijian / kiwi lad was dousing me with betadine and I kept asking peeps for a beer, but no one was bringing me one.
Then I hear Lilly, standing on her car edge yelling “Oi Brendo I’ll go get you a beer, what do you want!?”
We had an epic little beer moment on the rocks in the sun as the light dulled.
If that not a magic day Lilly, dunno what is!