An Ordinary Extraordinary Day.
By Dan Dobbin.
Cover image: @usixdesign
Today was a special day, because it was just like lots of other days.
Today I surfed my favourite reef with two of my oldest and dearest friends.
Nothing amazing or epic in the conditions. 3ft, light wind, summer leftover wobble through the swell, only we three out.
It’s a rarity these days for all of our paths and schedules to align. Distance, commitments, life getting in the way.
But this wasn’t always the case.
Days like many other days, surfing where we surfed today were the norm, not the exception.
A whole adolescence spent packing pits and talking shit on the peak, the little headland our own semi- private fiefdom.
Before we paddled out I was gifted a board straight from our pubescent time period by my mate. A Stewart 7-7, one with the white slick, not the classic orange, just like I had as a grom. Like the one Matt Riley shredded pipe all those years ago.
The beauty of friendship writ large when others care enough to think of you.
While I’m not a huge vintage board guy, given the occasion and sentiment it seemed appropriate to give it a spin.
Fuck knows how 14 year old, 55kg me used to pilot these boats around, but 41 year old 85kg me was loving the width, thickness and flex of the old beast.
Billy, I tip my hat.
Perhaps this is the essence what bodyboarding is. Little pockets of friendship and stoke dotted around the globe, spiderwebbing into communities and creating the culture that swirls around the simple act of sliding waves on your guts.
Here’s to future extraordinary ordinary days like today.