Mutant Slab and Monster Barrel.
October 25, 2020 is definitely a day I’ll never forget.
Woke up at 6am to be up at North Shore by 7. Seemed like a normal day, stoked feeling when I arrived at the beach and saw JMV ( Jacob Vandervelde), PcKai, Riley, Clark Little, Kevin, Seabass, Yoshi, and Mark.
First thing I asked as I looked out and seen set’s coming in is how big is it. JMV said, “brah there was just a heavy set right before you came.”
I watched it for about 10min and went to go gear up. Kevin a local photographer on the north shore said, “ Hey T, it would be cool to get a little interview before you get in the water! “ I replied, “ Of course brah automatic, that’s a good idea!” We did the interview and a set came in that was about 5′ maybe 6ft Hawaiian and I was amped to jump in.
Before I did, I walked over to Bev another well known photographer and we prayed together. Just asking for God’s protection, World Peace and Healing for everyone , and to have a fun time. Stretched for a little bit then Riley, Seabass, and I all paddle out at the same time. Clark Little had already been out there and was talking about the same heavy set as JMV saw earlier. I warmed up and caught a couple of smaller waves.
Then I saw a big set come in. I started scratching to stay in good position while the water underneath me was getting sucked below sea level; the velocity and mass of this wave was so powerful I had barely enough time to set my rail and instead of going down to bottom turn it projected me straight in the flats. I remember flying and a huge barrel eating me alive. As the 5ft lip of the wave excavated the sand I went into the trench. The vortex followed and tackled me like an NFL football player trying to win the super bowl.
I got held under for at least 6 seconds and popped back up only to get another 3 waves on the head!
The water was super heavy that day, the tide was rising, choke current, and the under-toe that was sweeping you off your feet mental. Totally out of breath my session was completed after an hour.
I rested then went to and surfed Pipeline for five hours. When I came back to my car I checked my phone and to my surprise JMV was shooting the whole time I was surfingvKeiki’s that morning.
I looked at the picture and was completely speechless, mind-blown because of the unexpected capture and that wave was a straight BEAST SLAB!
The elements of no wind, glassy, the lighting, everything was picture perfect. I’m going to frame this picture. Fattest slab I’ve caught in my bodyboarding lifevthus far. Hope everyone that read this has an awesome day and life. You literally can do anything you truly believe in mind, body, and soul. I wish for your dreams to come true. Take Care and Aloha 🤙🏽