No wrong Lines.
by Leon Comino
I remember waking up early at 4:30am, the smell of instant kopi, sweet and warm, a reminder of where I was, the bananas had seeds…WUT?! The air smelt like cloves, it’s so warm that you’re hugged by the darkness, “grab your board and be at the car in 15 minutes” they said.
“The perfect state is the acceptance of now”
In the car I used to ask myself questions to stay in the moment, “where am I?”, “Who am I with?”, “How does it feel?”, speeding to an unknown location in the darkness, it’s surreal, it’s exciting, it makes you question “why am I doing this?”. Too often our dreams pass us by, and when they’re right in front of us, we’re too busy living in anticipation of what’s to come, or what came before.
“Your wave…this is it!”
On the car ride there, we had a good crew of sponge benders, salivating over soup of the day… slabs. We drove to where there were more pigs than cars, arriving to the rising sun. Giving our best meerkat impersonation in the jungle, we hypothesised how shallow, how thick, how fast, what channel? An absolute slapper legged it down the the reef faster than Cathy Freeman… we scrambled faster than a centipede at a sock store.
“Fortune favours the fucking bold”
Matt Tildesley and Charles Ward had both danced in this liquid before, Charley still bore a chunk out of the bottom of his foot from getting flung skyward, proper hype stuff. Paddling out, it’s always like touching silk for the first time, ripples of texture unloading before us, lightening blue, circular eyes of churning fantasy.
“A man is what he thinks about all day long”
I knew I was pretty deep, I just couldn’t resist, fuck knowing what-if, going down the face…I dropped. Sitting in this vortex of psychedelic colour, staring down the line of light, I could see the window closing, hanging on through boom gates of white wash, staying tight and fast like a uni student tail-gating out of a westfield carpark. I could see Matt in the channel, and for a second I just smiled, we as bodyboarders are absolutely obsessed with finding our own waterslide, and here I was, sideways on my favourite biscuit, hurling through the liquid vortex of cylinder city.
“Life is short, but it’s the longest thing you’ll ever know ”
Looking back to that wave, I don’t ponder how my leg got scraped in the blender, I remember the smiling kids from the school coming down, running around with my Turbo 5, going nuts over the turquoise belly slider of righteousness. I remember them all throwing shakka’s, I remember the smile staying on my face for days, I remember not regretting a fucking thing.
“Waves are water before and after they kiss the shore”
To be able to feel, live, and enjoy this amazing experience of life in the ocean, is something I will always cherish. The ocean is energy, it gives me life, it gives me clarity, how do we know the path that lies before us? Ride the wave and see, there are no wrong lines…
More content by Leon Comino @swellevent #glasscurtains
Photography by Ross Collins and Matthew Tildesley.