The Test Pilot.
By Simon Longhurst.
📷 @scottruzzene & @warrenkeelan
Earlier this year, I flew back to the east coast, chasing one of hopefully many swells for the year. Unfortunately not to be as Covid-19 quickly kept me locked in the South Australian state, exploring more waves in the desert.
Back on topic, I’ve been trying to transition from surfing to taking photos, something that has been an unusually difficult undertaking. I do find it hard to sit back and take photos sometimes, particularly when it’s pumping. This particular trip, my intent was to document some waves back in my home state. I only took my wetsuit and a housing.
As we woke up the morning of the swell, we knew the swell was solid, so @scottruzzene, @warrenkeelan and myself quickly got our housings sorted and walked down the cliffs to this particular spot. Scott leant me one of his old worn down boards to sit on whilst shooting.
After about an hour of shooting perfect empties, Scott turns to me and says “go get a couple, I’ll hold your camera”. Good old Scott just wanted some scale for his photos, and I was already keen to give it a go.
Anyway, this type of behaviour usually means that I miss a few good shots, but I can’t help it. Shooting is only good when it’s crowded, right?
This particular spot breaks about 5-10 m from a rock that sits 5 m out of the water. Good for photos, not so fun to surf. It’s a well known spot but is rarely surfed for that reason. I ended up getting a few waves on Scott’s shitty board, dodging that rock and a few bombs in the process (pictured).
Anyway, what I’ve learnt is that taking photos will always come second to surfing, especially when the surfs pumping. An expensive lesson to learn.