Seasons Changing: Hawaii.
By Andrew Rams
Coming from Hawaii and celebrating the best weather on the planet is a true blessing.
While most of “real world” experience 4 seasons Hawaii really only has 2, the wet season and the dry season.
Lets start with the dry season. The dry season consists of really warm humid weather patterns . It also is prime time for Hurricanes and mosquitoes.
Due to the location of The Hawaiian islands every summer consists of the threat of damaging hurricanes. These hurricanes have killed and destroyed. We take them very serious and go out of are way to prepare.
With that being said we also get kinda excited. With Hurricanes come swells. Those swell directions are usually on tracks to expose reefs and beach breaks that normally remain quiet most of the year. When these lesser know spots fire the locals generally score world class waves with no one or cameras around. As they say , those who know, GO!
The south shore of Oahu during summer gets its fair share of south swells but it rarely gets overhead . There are a few breaks in “town “ (Waikiki,Honolulu) that can fire but unless you are born ‘n raised here and have lived and surfed in town all your life the chances of you getting more than 1 good wave in a 4 hour session is extremely rare. Everyone in town surfs in town. Its no joke. Population is booming!!
Then theres Sandy beach. The home of bodyboarding. The most consistent year round spot on island due to its angle of the beach on the south east corner of Oahu. “The studio” as its known. Where bodyboarding came into its own. Mike Stewart, Ben Severson, Kainoa , Aka, Hubb, Skipp . The list of local shredders theres is generations deep now. Its a special place where you can surf with 2-3 world champions regularly.
Then there’s the wet season.
Its all that matters if you ride waves and want to test yourself physically and mentally. Weather will consist of a steady offshore trade winds. Cooler temperatures. Cooler being low 80s F (26 Celsius) and water temp in the 70s F (21′ Celsius) and the often downpour of rain.
Its also when the 7 mile miracle of the North Shore turns on. Generally speaking its Late October through May if were lucky. The waves, well, lets just say on most North – Northwest beaches it never get under a few feet overhead for 4 months or more and can occasionally get up to 40feet.
If you surf its heaven on earth. Or hell, depending on your mind set. It’s home of the Banzai Pipeline. The wave to which all other waves are measured.
The power sounds like bombs exploding when waves crack the reef. The paddle out is scary, the pecking order is generational deep , all of it. Nothing elses matters. One wave there will change your life. For good or bad….
The wet season breaths life into this legendary spot. Its an experience that surfers from all over the globe flock to get a piece of it. There are plenty of other spots to surf and you could easily find yourself at an undisclosed reef scoring uncrowded waves but Pipe is Pipe and she is a beautiful beast of a wave.
As the wind and the weather change one thing is certain. We live in one of the most beautiful places on gods green earth and I truly feel blessed to be here.