One Shot: Sam Venn.

One Shot: Sam Venn.

Matt Young.

We woke up knowing it was going to be the biggest day of the trip. With the swell building we checked it for a brief moment on sunrise, and decided to  hit it right away.

Running down the cliff to a devilish red sky there was definatly  something eerie in the air.

I swam out to be greeted with a solid 10-12 foot swell stacking to the horizon.

Within the first 10minutes, Matty Young paddles and airdrops into this absolute beast! We kept fighting the crazy current and 10 foot swell lumps thinking there may be some gems.

Not very long later  I see everyone in the lineup start scrambling for the horizon, leaving me on my own in the “channel” knowing there were sets marching down on me! A huge 10-15ft closeout set washed through the whole channel cleaning everyone up besides Chris Deller and Mooty (Matt Young). I got absolutely steam rolled, doing cartwheels underwater, having no idea which way was up!

I was gifted just one quick breath of air between  waves. The last wave rolled over me and by then I was seeing stars, and then counting my lucky oned to.

This was the closest drowning experience I have had. We all slowly swam to shore, counting each other to making sure everyone was accounted for and ok. A crazy experience for sure!

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