One Shot: Willy Lujan.

One Shot: Willy Lujan.

Image: @jesusdeleon.


Hope everyone is doing well in this radical times!

This photos where taken back when I was 15 years old, in October 2016.

I remember this was one of the first swells of the season. October always seems to deliver great swells that hit Fronton´s reef just on the perfect spot.

This particular session, was one of those big and ‘classic’ El Fronton sessions.

You get these rights forming up huge square barrels all over the reef. Then there’s the left, probably not as long as the right when it’s this west, but still provides a dream end bowl where you get the chance to make any maneouver you can think of as well as the chance of riding giant barrels with its difficulty to make the perfect scoop in the solid sets that came through.

I remember arriving late in the afternoon, as I always did, due to the fact that I did secondary school one hour away from home and spent most of my day in class. During winter, I only had about 45 minutes to surf before dark when it wasn’t a weekend.

But man, this one was a tough session for the boys. I remember local chargers Néstor Péres hiting the reef heavily with his hand, resulting in the need for a couple of stitches and a good story to tell after the session and Jose “el rubio” not being able to move his neck for a couple of weeks after paying the price of not making one of those heavy lefts that rolled through with the sets.

If this wasn’t enough, as soon as I got my fins on, I remember Tristan coming in after serously hitting the shallow reef with his head.

Nevertheless when I paddle out the tide was already dropping so I opted to try a few of the rights which seemed to be difficult to make as you get that strange step on the wave that tells you that the tide is pretty low.

After a few waves I changed my mind, I wanted to make the most of that session in the time I had before dark and started to look up for those lefts, not the big ones, but those in-between sets which surely had a big bowl at the end.

Jesus also had moved to the left as the rights where not doing it anymore and as the sun was dropping, EL Fronton provided this artistic photo of an ARS with that style that represents me.

Thanks for reading !!!

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