Perseverance And Payoff.
By Mick Daley.
It was a long week at work knowing what was happening on the east coast, crazy waves were being ridden all week and everyone seemed to be going bonkers.
The forecast for Saturday was looking like the cleanest with good winds. Friday couldn’t go fast enough!
I’m in a group text with the boys, all I was hearing was how big has it
gotten again and it’s swung to the east! It was still pumping Friday and I knew where to look Saturday!
Tate and Benny were the only soldiers left to surf with as the others
were surfed out or injured.
Rocking up in the dark you could hear the violence of the waves slapping the sand. First impressions were the amount of heavy water moving across the beach! It didn’t take much time to make the call and suit up!
Twenty five minutes of paddling later and it seemed like it we weren’t getting out!
I tried to stay clam and time my approach to the line up. Taking 6ft plus wave on the head isn’t something to be taken lightly.
I knew the boys would be going through the samething, we were separated pretty quickly. We I finally got my break I could see Tate a good 200m from the main peak!
So much water to cross!
Tow teams and a few locals had hit the line up by then and all were witnessing cooking room size pits going through empty!
The wave in this image is a moment that I cannot forget after a lot of blurry situations from this session!
When its pumping there’s often never enough time to get you bearings. I could hear was screaming as I pressed towards this peak.
” GO Mick”
All I was thinking was ” Don’t fuck it up!” Your only chance in such a line up was to pick the good ones, otherwise you payed the price of what’s coming after it. This swell was relentless!
Two real strokes and I was on, the platform became so much more with the amount of water behind it.
As I set my rail, the speed I had off the the peak was nuts and as I made my way to the bottom the view of what was about to unfold was something we all chase. I was staring at 30 meters of corner bending beach break pit!
I didn’t think I was that deep but all I could hear was the explosion of the shockwave right near me. White knuckled I drove down the line before popping off the back.
It’s felt amazing to get back into the line up without copping a beating. I was frothing!
I had to pay my overdue taxes after that one wave though. After hours in the water, I copped an 8ft wave on the head on the inside which snapped my leash, sent me to the beach gasping for air and continued dodging ski teams.
My session was over, but the memories will live on.