Words and image by Jay Rossetti.
My foot had not hit the ground before he appeared excitedly at my car door after exiting his. He was pumped and surprisingly already in his steamer with ugg boots insitu.
“You chasing waves man” he enquired rubbing his hands together, jogging on the spot
“Did you check ‘here” and “did you check there?”
“It’s gonna be sick” he said bouncing back to his car.
It’s still fucking dark I thought rubbing the sleep from my eyes as I started to make my way from the car park. I mean had never even seen this bloke before, but that’s what this place does I guess.
The truth is, I blew it. I walked up with my camera, leaving my board in the car. The tide I thought would give it abit of a wobble and just make it annoying, and I was right, well sort of. It took a while before I saw the first decent one, first light had just made its presence known and it hit the reef just right, spilling its contents into the empty channel.
“Shit” I muttered to myself as I weighed up the situation, I could run back, get my board and get back out, but by then there could be 10 people out, should I just stay and shoot? This mind fuck went on for a good 30 minutes, and in that time only the fella from the car park had paddled out, another 20 mins of weighing up the pros and cons and only a few others had joined him, and before I knew it she was teaming, and not just in the water.
The excitement of her breaking rivals any community event, and the crowd is incidental. It’s a line up usually spanning the full experience spectrum, all hoping to be apart of something special or humorous. The regular faces still popping up on the better ones, and not wasting a piece of her product.
A close friend asked what it was like and I recounted the morning. Sensing my disappointment in myself he profoundly reassured me as only he can,
“You don’t surf there to get waves, you go out to swallow industrial chemicals and dog shit next to people you hate”
Surfing there is like going to No. 5 in Union Street as a young fella, the first few times you hide at the back a little terrified, excited and overwhelmed, but after a while you are elbowing mates, strangers and anyone else out of the way hoping to get involved with whatever comes your way.